Natural Alabaster

Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Material Genuine Natural Alabaster Shades · Metal Canopy & Fittings Stone cut and polished; metal electroplated and finished.

Finish Black · White

Light source E26 or E27 socket Choose the base that matches your region — E26 in North America, E27 elsewhere.

Power Max 40W per socket

Voltage AC 110–240V

Control Wall switch — dimmable with a dimmable bulb on a compatible dimmer

Mounting Ceiling — hardwired, cord suspended

Environment Indoor only · IP20

Preparation time 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch.

Good to Know

Configuration Arrangement Where it works Ceiling

1 Light ArrangementSingle drop Where it worksBedside · powder room · beside a mirror. Buy two or three separately and hang them in a row over an island — the most flexible way to light a long counter. Ceiling8–10 ft

3 Lights ArrangementGathered Where it worksBreakfast nook · small round table · short island · stair landing. Keep it tight — three drops spread wide just look sparse. Ceiling10 ft +

5 Lights
Popular ArrangementGathered or spread Where it worksStandard dining table · kitchen island · living room. Gather it over a round table; spread it over a rectangular one. The count most rooms actually need. Ceiling10–14 ft

7 Lights ArrangementSpread or cascade Where it worksLong dining table · open-plan living · open stairwell. At seven drops it becomes the main event in the room, so give it room to breathe. Ceiling12–16 ft

9 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksTwo-story foyer · stairwell void · atrium. Set it as a diagonal so it reads properly from the landing as well as the floor. Ceiling14–18 ft

11 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksThree-story stairwell · hotel or office lobby · grand entry. Mount over the void, not over the treads, and plan a lift for installation. Ceiling18 ft +

Eleven is where we stop stocking — not where we stop making

Eleven drops fill a three-story stairwell. A hotel lobby, an atrium, or a banquet room needs more, so the count is not capped. Tell us how many and how you want them arranged, and we'll build it — same stone shade, same cord, just more of them. Send us your ceiling height and a photo of the space and we'll come back with a layout before anything is made.

Ask About More Drops

The design

Stone Doesn't Want to Be a Sphere

Give it a belly and a neck, and everything changes.

Most stone pendants are globes, and a globe is the one shape that wastes what stone can do. Light enters it and leaves evenly in every direction — the same brightness at the top as the bottom, no shoulder, nothing for the eye to settle on. You end up with a glowing ball that could have been made of anything.

Manon was drawn the other way round. The shade swells at the base and draws in to a short collar, the way a decanter does, and that single change reorganises the light inside it. The glow gathers in the widest part and thins as the stone narrows — so each drop has a gradient that no one applied, no one painted, and no two of which are quite the same. Look up at one and you see something closer to a small lit vessel than a lamp.

Hung together, the cords are cut to different lengths on purpose. A cluster hung level is just a row; hung at staggered heights it becomes a slow diagonal falling through the room, and it stays composed whether you are standing under it, seeing it from a landing, or catching it from a doorway across the house. And because alabaster is quarried rather than moulded, the shades in your own fixture will not match each other — some milkier, some more amber, each with its own veining. That is not a tolerance we failed to hold. It is the only honest evidence that the stone is real.

Because they are cut from real stone, not moulded from plastic. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every shade is cut from a different piece.

So on a 5 or 11-light cluster, some shades will look milkier and some warmer, and none will look exactly like the photograph. That is the proof it is real — a set that matched perfectly would have to be resin.

Match it to the height of the space, not the floor area — this fixture is narrow and long, so width barely matters.

1 light over a nightstand or a counter. 3 for a breakfast nook or a small table. 5 for a standard dining table or island. 7 for a long table or an open stairwell. 9 or 11 for a two or three-story entry, where the drops can be seen from more than one floor.

Yes — cords hang straight down no matter what angle the ceiling is, so every shade will sit perfectly upright.

Two things to sort out. First, the round plate at the ceiling — the piece covering the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind it. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock one.

Second, and this one catches people out on a cluster: the cords all come out of a plate that is now on an angle, so shades on the low side of the slope end up nearer the floor than the ones on the high side. That can look wonderful or it can look like a mistake. Decide which you want before you fix the cord lengths, and measure each shade from the floor rather than from the ceiling. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we'll advise.

Yes. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can tighten the whole cluster up for a normal ceiling or let it fall for a stairwell.

Over a dining table, hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop — much lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table and it is where it looks best. Anywhere people walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Need more length than it comes with? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra.

No. Stone is not see-through the way glass is — the light travels a short way inside the material and comes back out softened, so there is no bright spot and no visible filament. It is comfortable to sit under for an evening and comfortable to look straight at.

Standard screw-in bulbs — E26 in the US and Canada, E27 in Europe and most of Asia, up to 40W each. Choose warm white, around 2700K; cool white light fights the natural warmth of the stone and makes it look grey. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types.

Yes, but you need dimmable bulbs on a dimmer switch. An ordinary bulb will not dim whatever switch you fit — that is the most common reason people think a new light is faulty. Buy them all dimmable rather than mixing, and check your dimmer can handle the total wattage of every bulb together.

Stone weighs more than it looks, and a 9 or 11-light carries a lot of it. Before ordering, check the electrical box in your ceiling is rated for the weight and screwed into a wooden joist, not just plasterboard — a standard box holds far less than most people assume. Five minutes with your electrician now saves a lot later. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration.

No. It is rated IP20 — indoor dry rooms only, with no protection against water or steam. Alabaster is also porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Dining room, entry, stairwell, bedroom, living room: all fine.

A soft dry cloth, nothing else. Keep water off the stone — alabaster absorbs it, and the mark left behind will not buff out.

No sprays, no polish, no scouring pads. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

Installation

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

Read the Full Installation Guide

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab