Natural Alabaster

Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Material Genuine Natural Alabaster Column & Shade · Brass base and brackets Stone cut and hand-polished; metal electroplated and finished.

Finish Natural White Alabaster · Gold

Light source E26 bulb — LED recommended Bulbs not included. Standard US screw base. See the note below on why LED matters here.

Power Max 40W

Voltage AC 110–240V

Control Foot switch on the cord — on / off Not a dimmer. See the note below on how to dim it.

Cord 150 cm / 59″ with switch plug Extended on request — ask before ordering.

Installation Plug and play — no hardwiring, no electrician

Environment Indoor, dry locations only

Preparation time 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch.

Good to Know

The design

Nothing Is Holding It Up Except Itself

Take away the pole and the lamp has to become the structure.

Look at almost any floor lamp and you will find the same three parts: a base to stop it falling, a pole to gain height, and a shade to soften the bulb. Two of those three exist only to serve the third. The pole does nothing you would ever want to look at — it is scaffolding, tolerated because the shade has to get up to eye level somehow.

Verity was drawn by asking what happens if you delete it. The stone column is the structure and the lamp at once: it stands on its own weight, carries the shade, hides the wiring inside itself, and — because alabaster passes light — glows rather than interrupting. There is no pole because there is nothing left for a pole to do.

Which is why it tapers. A column that met the floor at the same width it meets the shade would read as a pillar — heavy, architectural, a little severe. Widening toward the ground does two things at once: it puts the mass low, where a lamp this tall needs it, and it lets the form rise and narrow the way a thing does when it is reaching rather than propping. The thin brass disc underneath is the only concession to hardware, and it exists mostly to lift the stone a few millimetres off the floor so the base catches a line of light.

The shade above is deliberately squared. A round shade on a round column would be one shape repeated; a rectangle on a taper is two ideas meeting, and the meeting is what your eye recognises from across a room. Both are the same stone, cut from the same quarried block — so the veining that runs up the column carries on through the shade, and no two lamps are marked the same way.

Honestly, they are very close. The small is 15.7″ wide × 63″ tall; the large is 17.7″ wide × 65″ tall. Two inches either way — nobody walking into the room will be able to tell them apart.

So decide on the shade width against the furniture beside it, not on height. Next to a deep sofa or a wide armchair the 17.7″ keeps the proportion; in a narrow corner, an entry, or beside a slim reading chair the 15.7″ sits better. If you genuinely cannot choose, take the smaller one — an under-scaled lamp reads as restrained, an over-scaled one reads as a mistake.

No — it is an ambient lamp. Stone diffuses light in every direction instead of aiming it, so you get a warm even glow with no beam and nothing harsh anywhere.

That suits a corner, a sofa side, or a bedroom. If you read in that chair, pair it with a directional reading light. Expecting one soft stone lamp to do both jobs is how people end up disappointed with it.

No. It plugs into an ordinary socket — nothing to hardwire, nothing to drill, and no permission needed if you rent. There is a foot switch on the cord, so you turn it on with your toe rather than reaching up into the shade. The cord is 59″, which reaches along a wall but not across a room — check where your nearest outlet is, and ask us for a longer cord when you order if you need one.

Not with the foot switch — that is on/off only. And a dimmable bulb on its own does nothing, because there is no dimmer for it to work with. This catches a lot of people out.

Two things do work: an in-line plug-in dimmer between the lamp and the wall, or a smart bulb you dim from your phone. Both are inexpensive, and beside a sofa most people eventually want the option.

Heavy — it is solid stone on a brass disc, not a hollow shade on a metal pole. Ask us for the exact figure if you are carrying it upstairs or standing it on a delicate floor.

Mostly that is good news: it will not be knocked over by a child, a dog or a vacuum cleaner, and it needs no wide sprawling base to stay upright. The trade-off is simply that it is not a lamp you move on a whim — choose the spot and plan to leave it there.

A standard E26 screw bulb, not included — and choose LED. Not for fire safety; stone does not burn. It is about heat.

A filament bulb warms the stone every evening and lets it cool every night, and that repeated expansion and contraction is where hairline cracks start in any natural stone. An LED barely warms it. Pick warm white, 2700–3000K — cool white through alabaster looks grey and drains the warmth out of the brass.

Because the stone is quarried, not moulded. The veining running through your column will be its own — different pattern, different depth of colour, and it will catch the light its own way.

On a piece this large that variation is the first thing anyone notices, and it is exactly what tells you the stone is real. A column that matched the photograph precisely would have to be resin.

No. Natural alabaster is mineral, not plastic — it holds its colour for decades and gives off no odour when warm, which is the usual failing of resin and acrylic imitations. Kept in a dry indoor spot it simply develops a faint patina with the years rather than degrading.

A soft dry cloth on both the stone and the brass. Keep water off the alabaster — it is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that will not buff out.

No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. Switch off and let the bulb cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

No — indoor dry rooms only. Alabaster is porous, so steam and damp are bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Living rooms, bedrooms, entries and studies are all fine.